An Insider’s Taiwan Itinerary for 1, 2, or 3 weeks

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One of the most common questions I get from my readers is how to plan the perfect Taiwan travel itinerary.

It’s a common story: people don’t know too much about Taiwan, they look at the map and see that it’s a pretty small country, so they think 7 days in Taiwan will be enough.

Once they start planning their Taiwan itinerary, they realize one week is not enough because there are SO MANY things to do in this compact island nation, so they book 2 weeks in Taiwan.

Then, the more they plan the finer details of their Taiwan itinerary, the more they wish they had actually booked 3 weeks in Taiwan or even one month in Taiwan, and they can’t figure out how to cram it all in!

That’s exactly why I wrote this article. If you want to know exactly how to plan your Taiwan travel schedule, you’ve come to the best free online resource currently available. Throughout the article you’ll find links to over 20 of my more specific articles about traveling in Taiwan so you can find the finer details for each place.

I’ve been traveling around and living in Taiwan for over 10 years, and I’ve written a book about and articles for CNN, National Geographic Traveller, and more about how to travel in Taiwan. You can also consult my updated Taiwan travel guide for more general information and tips for planning your tips.

Essentials for your Taiwan trip

– Read my 55 favorite things to do in Taiwan and find out the best month to visit Taiwan for you.

– Learn everything you need to know about Taiwanese cuisine and street food.

– Find great deals and discounts on transportation, entrance fees, and more on Klook. We use it all the time for traveling around Taiwan. Use my referral link to get NTD100 off your first booking!

– If you are looking for a professional, customized tour of Taiwan, please get in touch with me and I’ll share my recommendations based on your needs.

– If you’re visiting Taiwan as a family, I’ve written a similar Taiwan itinerary with kids.

– Learn more about the Taiwanese Hokkien and Mandarin languages before you go.

Taiwan travel planning group

How to Get Around Taiwan

Arriving at the Taoyuan International Airport, the cheapest way to get to Taipei is by bus, which costs around NT125 ($4) and takes about an hour.

The new airport MRT takes 35-50 minutes and costs NT160. Order an EasyCard online for pickup when you arrive, get one with a 4G SIM card included, or simply buy one at any MRT station. The MRT system is the lifeline of Taipei; you’ll take it to get everywhere, and using an EasyCard is makes each ride cheaper and more convenient.

The EasyCard can also be used on various other types of transportation and services in Taiwan.

Inside a Taipei MRT, the best way to get around on your Taipei trip
The Taipei MRT, one of the best metro systems in the world.

Also consider getting an Unlimited Fun Pass, which includes unlimited MRT and bus rides in Taipei and New Taipei City, five tourist shuttle buses to attractions all over Northern Taiwan, and entrance fees to 16 major Taipei attractions. It is can save you a lot of time and trouble! There’s also a cheaper transport-only pass that doesn’t included the attractions. Read my guide to using Taipei Fun Passes to decide whether they are worth the money, and whether you need to get one for your kids.

Booking a private transfer from the airport online is usually 100-500NT cheaper than grabbing a taxi when you arrive, so I would really recommend this, especially for families or groups of people. Child seats are available upon request.

If you follow my two-week or three-week Taiwan itinerary below, you’ll notice it goes around Taiwan in a clockwise direction. It can just as easily be done in the opposite direction if you prefer.

For most of the route, you’ll be relying on the regular (TRA) trains and a few buses. It is important to book the trains in advance because they almost always sell out. This is especially true for weekends, and on long weekends or holidays like Lunar New Year, entire trains can sell out in minutes.

Want to know how to get around Taiwan? Take the TRA trains!
Riding the regular (TRA) train with my kids

Make sure you book your tickets online as soon as they go on sale (here’s a guide for how to do it), at midnight exactly two weeks before your trip (for example, for a trip on Feb 16, book right after midnight on the night of Feb 1, technically the early morning of Feb. 2, which is 14 days before your trip.)

There are different types of trains, and for the express ones like Puyuma and Taroko Express, you can’t buy a standing ticket. These ones tend to sell out really fast.

For all other types, you can buy a standing ticket, even at the last minute, and stand somewhere or sit on the floor between cars. I’ve done this a lot, even with kids, and it’s not terrible for 1-2 hour trips. If you see any empty seats, you can sit in them until someone with a ticket comes along.

The west coast has the High Speed Rail (HSR), running from Nangang in Taipei to Zuoying in Kaohsiung. It costs quite a bit more and doesn’t save much time for short trips, especially since the HSR stations are located outside of the city centers for most stops outside of Taipei, while TRA stations tend to be right in the city center.

How to get around Taiwan the fastest: by HSR
We ride the HSR with style

I would only suggest using the HSR for longer (multi-stop) trips up or down the west coast. For example, if you decide to skip a few stops on my itinerary and gun it from Kaohsiung, Tainan or Chiayi back to Taipei, then I’d say it’s worth the money.

Also note that the Taoyuan HSR stop has a shuttle bus connecting to the Taoyuan International Airport, if you want to go to the airport directly at the end of your trip instead of connecting through Taipei.

You may also use the HSR for getting from the last stop on this Taiwan itinerary (Taichung) back to Taipei, which cuts travel time in half, or for doing a day trip from Taipei to Taichung.

Insider’s Tip

Book your HSR tickets in advance online to save money. Nevertheless, you can always buy a full-price HSR ticket at the last minute and sit in cars 10-12 (non-reserved). We’ve even done this at the busiest time of the year (Lunar New Year) and only had to wait under an hour to get on a train and even get a seat.

Taiwan 1 week itinerary

If you’ve only got 7 days in Taiwan, obviously you aren’t going to tour the whole country, but it’s still enough time to get a very good taste of it. What most likely will happen is that you’ll finish your trip and start thinking about when you can come back again to see more of the country. I’m only repeating what many, many travelers say!

With only one week in Taiwan, I would suggest that stick to the greater Taipei area, including one or two days trips (see my top 40 recommended day trips from Taipei, or my dedicated articles to the most famous ones: Jiufen Old Street, how to get to Jiufen, Wulai aboriginal village, and Jiaoxi Hot Spring, and then do ONE longer trip out of the city, perhaps for 2 nights. In fact, in my Taiwan 5-day itinerary, I recommend readers to stay in Taipei, but with 7 days, you’ll have a little more flexibility.

I’ve got several separate articles to help you plan your time in Taipei. Start with my two day, three day, or four day itinerary for Taipei, guide to where to stay in Taipei, list of 50 best things to do in Taipei, guide to Taipei’s night markets, and the best temples in Taipei.

So where should you go for your 2-3 night trip out of the city? For nature lovers, my number one suggestion would be Taroko Gorge in Hualien County. For all the details you need to plan this part of your Taiwan trip, see my detailed Taroko Gorge guide and what else to do in Hualien.

View of Taroko Gorge
Magnificent Taroko Gorge

Located in Hualien County on the wild, stunningly beautiful East Coast of Taiwan, Taroko Gorge is the Taiwan’s #1 scenic attraction. If you’re looking for a Taroko Gorge tour, Island Life Taiwan offers the best, or you can rent a scooter in Hualien and do it yourself.

Two nights in Hualien is just the right amount of time, allowing you a full day to explore the gorge. Three nights would allow you to see more of the area or at a more relaxed pace, but since you’re doing Taiwan in one week, I would recommend just sticking to two nights, as there are so many other great places in and around Taipei that you can use that extra day for.

In fact, you could even do Taroko Gorge as a day trip from Taipei, which is a little crazy, but is possible. For example, this tour company offers a day tour to Taroko Gorge, which includes a return flight from Taipei, or there’s this day tour from Taipei by train.

Insider’s Tip

The train from Taipei to Hualien is one of the most popular trips in the country and always sells out. If you don’t want to sit on the floor on a slow train, it is essential to try to get a ticket as soon as they are released (see how to in the ‘how to get around Taiwan’ section above), and try to go on a weekday.

Another option is to arrange a private transfer to Hualien, a shared sightseeing car, or fly from Taipei’s Songshan Airport to Hualien to get there.

One alternative to visiting Taroko Gorge is spending some time in Yilan County in the northeastern corner of Taiwan, which is closer to Taipei than Hualien is (you pass through Yilan on the train to get to Hualien). Things to do in Yilan including hiking, hot springs, beaches, night markets, and more.

If you’re more of a city person or into the arts, then I’d suggest heading down to Taichung for a few nights. There you can take in sights like Rainbow Village, the Totoro bus stop, Animation Lane, Feng Chia Night Market, and more.

For more information, see my guide to Taichung City, and ideas for day trips from Taichung.

Taichung Rainbow Village coffee cup
Rainbow Village, Taichung

I know that some travelers only spend 1 week in Taiwan and manage to squeeze in a trip to Sun Moon Lake or Alishan, but I don’t recommend doing that; it’s possible, but I think it’s too rushed.

See more about visiting these two famous Taiwan attractions in the Taiwan 3-week itinerary below.

Taiwan 2 week itinerary

If you’ve got 2 weeks in Taiwan, it is feasible to do a full trip around Taiwan by train.

Many people ask me about whether its necessary to rent a car in Taiwan, to which my answer is ‘no’. This country is blessed with an amazing transportation system, both in the main cities and between them.

Driving in big cities can be stressful here and it’s easy to get lost (we even have a car, but only my wife drives it because I’m too nervous to…)

The one place you might want to consider renting a car or scooter is the east coast of Taiwan; see part 2 of my guide to the east coast to see how to plan this awesome road trip from Hualien to Taitung or Kenting.

While it’s easy to do it without a car, you can definitely see more in this part of Taiwan with your own set of wheels.

How to Rent a Car in Taiwan

If you do decide to rent a car, you can get one from the Taoyuan Airport here, or do like we did one year and use the train to get out of Taipei, then rent a car in Hualien, from where it’s much easier to drive. You can rent from various other locations in Taiwan; just use one of the above links then search for them on Klook.

I don’t want to make this article repetitive, so I’m going to share the detailed Taiwan tour itinerary below, in the Taiwan three-week itinerary section.

To plan an itinerary for two weeks in Taiwan, simply follow the same route I describe for the Taiwan 3 week itinerary, but cut out 2-3 stops and pass by them on the train. Don’t worry; the traveling times are not too long in Taiwan!

Sample Taiwan itinerary 14 days: Nature focused

Days 1-3 Taipei
Days 4-5 Hualien and Taroko Gorge
Days 6-7 Taitung
Days 8-10 Alishan
Days 11-12 Sun Moon Lake
Days 13-14 Back to Taipei

Sample Taiwan itinerary 14 days: City/culture/history focused

Days 1-3 Taipei
Days 4-5 Hualien and Taroko Gorge
Days 5-7 Kaohsiung
Days 8-10 Tainan
Days 11-12 Taichung
Days 13-14 Back to Taipei

*Use the TRA website to check the traveling times between the above stops.

Taiwan 3 week itinerary

OK, now I’m going to get down to some serious day-by-day details. The following is precisely how to plan 3 weeks in Taiwan.

As I said above, simply shave off one or more stops to suit the exact number of days you have in Taiwan.

I’ll also sprinkle the itinerary with ideas for additional stops along way, including off-the-beaten-track attractions. These options will help if you prefer to avoid the major tourist sights, or you’ve got one month in Taiwan or more.

Taiwan Itinerary 3 weeks

Days 1-3 Taipei
Days 4-5 Hualien and Taroko Gorge
Days 6-7 Taitung
Days 8-10 Kaohsiung
Days 11-12 Tainan
Days 13-15 Fenqihu and Alishan
Days 16-17 Sun Moon Lake
Days 18-19 Taichung
Days 20-21 Back to Taipei

This proposed itinerary involves traveling to a new place every 2-3 days. Some people may not like traveling like this. It depends what kind of traveler you are!

If you are the type of traveler who enjoys spending more time in one spot and getting to know it better, feel free to add extra days to any of the stops, and cut out other stops to make up for it. I will add extra ideas on things to do for each spot in case you stay longer.

I just want to show you what is possible, and how to cover all the main stops in Taiwan in three weeks, for those who want to. This is exactly how I travel, but I know others are different!

Day 1: Arrive in Taipei

Check in to your hotel, and start exploring. See my Taipei accommodation guide for the best hotels in Taipei covering all budgets and types of travelers, or browse Airbnbs in Taipei.

Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall, Taipei
CKS Memorial Hall: One of the top attractions in Taipei

Day 2: Explore Taipei City

Consult my itineraries for 2 days or 3 days in Taipei, my top-50 things to do in Taipei, guide to the best night markets in Taipei, and the best Taipei temples.

Also see my neighborhood guides to funky Ximending, historic Dadaocheng and Dihua Street, and the hot springs of Beitou.

Bubble tea sign at Ningxia Night Market, Taipei
Don’t miss a night market when in Taipei!

Day 3: More of Taipei, or do a day trip

City lovers may want to stay  in Taipei for a third day, but if you can I’d recommend checking out one or more of the many day trips from Taipei that I recommend.

Some popular day trips from Taipei include Jiufen & Jinguashi, Pingxi (including Houtong Cat Village, Shifen Waterfall, and lots of hiking opportunities), Keelung (especially for the great night market), or Jiaoxi in Yilan County (for hot springs and hiking).

If the weather is right, here’s my article on the best beaches within 1-2 hours of Taipei, which are great for visiting in not only summer in Taiwan but also spring or autumn.

Miaokou Night Market in Keelung (aka Keelung night market)
Keelung Night Market, my favorite one in Taiwan and an easy trip from Taipei

Day 4: Take the train to Hualien

Check in to your hotel and begin exploring the area.

If you’ve got time, consider taking this highly recommended aboriginal cooking course.

Important consideration: Where to Stay in Hualien

There are three main places you can stay in Hualien County for visiting Taroko Gorge, and they are all quite different. Click here to browse hotels in Hualien and Airbnbs in Hualien.

1. Hualien City: This offers the best choice of restaurants, accommodations of all price ranges, and other things to do, but it is the furthest from Taroko Gorge (30-40 minutes by car).

2. Xincheng: This is a very small town close to the entrance to Taroko Gorge. There isn’t much there, but there are a couple great hotels. It’s only a 10-minute drive to Taroko Gorge. You can get off the train at Xincheng (Taroko Gorge stop), one stop before Hualien.

3. In Taroko Gorge: There is a small collection of hostels RIGHT before the entrance to Taroko Gorge. Alternatively, you can camp inside Taroko Gorge (super basic facilities) or stay at aboriginal-themed Taroko Village Hotel (see prices / read reviews), which is also a great place to eat, or luxurious Silks Palace Taroko (see prices / read reviews).

*See my recommended hotel and hostel choices for each of the above places in my detailed Taroko Gorge article.

Day 5: Taroko Gorge

Qingshui Cliffs, Hualian, Taiwan
Dramatic Qingshui Cliffs near Taroko Gorge

See my complete Taroko Gorge article for everything you need to know for planning a trip to Taroko Gorge. If you’re looking for a tour, I recommend Island Life Tours, which specializes in Taroko Gorge. You can also rent a scooter and visit the gorge yourself, but beware of the narrow road and possible landslides. Do not visit the gorge during or right after heavy rain, especially by scooter or bicycle.

You will want to wake up early for this one, and you’ll probably spend a long, full day visiting the various attractions, views, shrines, and hikes in the gorge, not to mention beautiful Qixingtan Beach and the dramatic Qingshui Cliffs nearby, which can also be included in your Taroko Gorge tour if you plan it right.

Off-the-beaten-track ideas:

– If visiting Taiwan in winter, check out Wenshan Hot Spring, a natural hot spring in Taroko Gorge that was damaged by a typhoon, and is now semi-open (you might have to climb around a fence or two). Or try these other amazing hot springs around Taiwan!

– Other amazing experiences in Hualien include sea kayaking below the Qingshui Cliffs and paragliding!

Day 6-7: Taitung

Your next stop is one of the most remote and beautiful corners of Taiwan, Taitung County. Also called the “rice basket of Taiwan”, Taitung is known for its clean air, fresh water, quaint rural scenery, and the stunning East Rift Valley.

The East Rift Valley, Taiwan
Typical rural scenery in the East Rift Valley

Spend day 6 to get there. It only takes 1-3 hours to get there on the train from Hualien, depending on which town you decide to stay in, and what speed of train you catch. And of course, spend day 7 exploring the area.

There are four great towns I recommend you can spend a few nights in; each one is beautiful and worthwhile for different reasons. Each of them is on the main train line, and I’ll list them in order of closest to Hualien.

For all four towns, the most beautiful areas to explore tend to be around (not right in) the town center, so it’s ideal to get around by bicycle (rental shops are plentiful), or if you want to explore further afield, by scooter (international driver’s license usually required).

Don’t bother stopping in Taitung city, as there isn’t much to see there. There are direct flights from Taipei’s Songshan airport to Taitung if you want to access the region faster.

Where to stay in Taitung County

All four of these little towns offer the quintessential Taitung expeirence. I love all of them, so take your pick! Click here to browse hotels in Taitung and Airbnbs in Taitung.

1. Yuli (actually in Hualien County, just before Taitung): located near a beautiful waterfall, hiking trails, and hot springs. It’s closest to Hualien, but your next train ride (to Kaohsiung) will be pretty long.

2. Chishang: surrounded by beautiful rice paddies and especially good for casual cycling. Mr. Brown Boulevard is a famous cycling spot with really beautiful rice paddy views.

3. Guanshan: Also famous for cycling, this small town has an easy cycling path the circles the entire town and includes more great rice paddy views and a few easy ups and downs.

Find out where to stay in the above three towns in my guide to the east coast of Taiwan part 2.

4. Luye: Yet another fine choice, the area outside the train station feels more like farmland than a town, and is also perfect for cycling or strolling among tea and fruit orchards.

Every summer, the Taiwan International Hot Air Balloon Festival takes place on a gorgeous plateau 20 minutes drive uphill from Luye. You can book a balloon ride anytime of year.

See my full article on Luye and the Taitung Hot Air Balloon Festival for all the info and best hotel options.

Taiwan hot air balloon festival
My kids at the annual Taitung Hot Air Balloon Festival in Luye

Want to Stay in Taitung Longer?

Taitung might just end up being your favorite part of Taiwan, as it is for many expats who live here.

If you’ve got more time or want to focus your trip mainly on this part of Taiwan, hop on a ferry and spend a few days at Green Island (Lu Dao). This small island has more of a tropical feel, with great snorkeling/scuba diving, and has one of only three salt water hot springs in the world. Book your Green Island ferry tickets here.

Another choice is Orchid Island (Lanyu), home to Taiwan’s most remote aboriginal tribe. A trip there involves more planning, so you’ll definitely want to consult my detailed guide to Orchid Island.

If you want to check out the surf and hang with artists and hippies, see my guide to Dulan, a small surf town on the coast near Taitung City, or drive all the way up/down the coastal highway using my Taiwan East Coast road trip article.

Day 8-10: Kaohsiung

Fo Guang Shan, Kaohsiung
Giant Buddha at Foguangshan, Kaohsiung

Depending on which town you chose in Taitung, it will take you 2.5-4 hours to reach Kaohsiung on day 8.

Spend all of day 9 exploring Kaohsiung, the largest port in southern Taiwan. Street art enthusiasts will find some of Taiwan’s best street art in Kaohsiung, and the newly renovated waterfront around Pier 2 Art Center is a must.

Other things to do include hiking on Shoushan and connecting Chaishan mountains, where you can spot loads of wild macaques, or visiting the restored British Consulate at Takow, which offers beautiful seaside views, or heading to Cijin (Qijin) Island for a few hours.

Also don’t miss the awesome Lotus Pond, which features multiple temples, near the Zuoying HSR station. If just seeing Lotus pond is not enough for you, you can try “water blob jumping” into it.

On day 10, take your pick from a number of great day trip possibilities from Kaohsiung.

Xiao Liuqiu (sometimes called “Little Okinawa”) is a pretty island worth exploring, while Foguangshan, Taiwan’s largest Buddhist monastery and home to the country’s largest Buddha, Meinong, a quaint Hakka village famous for its bamboo umbrellas, and E-Da, one of Taiwan’s largest theme parks, are also in greater Kaohsiung.

It’s possible to see several of the above attractions in one day on this Kaohsiung day tour. Yet another idea is to learn how to make Taiwanese pineapple cakes in this Kaohsiung cooking class!

Click here to browse hotels in Kaohsiung and Airbnbs in Kaohsiung.

Consider Kenting for a Beach Holiday

Kenting National Park occupies the southern tip of Taiwan and is home to (mainland) Taiwan’s best beaches (the real best ones are on the offshore islands, like Green Island and Penghu).

I don’t include it on the main itinerary because it’s quite a detour off the round-Taiwan train route, so you’ll need 2-3 hours to get there from Kaohsiung. Also, if you’re used to the beaches in other parts of Asia, such as Thailand or the Philippines, Kenting may not impress you as much.

Still, the park offers gorgeous scenery and many activities, so if you’re looking for a beach vacation, do consider it! Kenting used to be massively popular among Taiwanese, but the trend has faded, as many locals now find it easier and almost as cheap to fly to Japan or other countries nearby for holidays.

Also, in 2019, Kenting’s long running Spring Scream arts and music festival, which always takes place in April in Taiwan, was held outside of Kenting for the first time ever. The 2021 festival is slated for April 2-4, but the location is not yet announced. There are usually other music festivals and beach parties that take place in Kenting on the same long weekend at the beginning of April, and they are sometimes collectively called “Spring Scream.”

Day 11-12: Tainan

Tainan salt fields just before sunset
Jingzijiao Salt Fields in Tainan

A quick hop on the train (30 min to 1 hour) going north will bring you to Tainan, Taiwan’s former capital. History buffs will find great forts and some of Taiwan’s oldest temples to explore (and don’t miss Anping Tree House!) Get the Tainan historical sights pass if you plan to visit many of these sights.

Meanwhile, art lovers should make their way to Blueprint Cultural & Creative Park and 321 Art Alley Settlement.

Most Taiwanese people regard Tainan as the cultural and food capital of Taiwan, so don’t miss the city’s famous street food!

Click here to browse hotels in Tainan and Airbnbs in Tainan.

Unique things to do in Tainan

For something totally off-the-beaten-track, you can discover the remains of Tainan’s now defunct salt industry. Check out Cigu Salt Mountain and Salt Museum north of Tainan’s city center, or the visually stunning Jingzijiao Wapan Salt Fields further north near the border with Chiayi County. Read my guide to Tainan’s Salt Mountain and Salt Fields for all the details.

For something truly insane, nothing can beat the Yanshui Beehive Fireworks Festival, which takes place every year on the Lantern Festival (two weeks after Lunar New Year Day) in Yanshui, a small district in greater Tainan. During the festival, participants get pummeled with thousands of bottle rockets and fireworks for hours on end. My Dad loved it when I took him, but I would never do it again!

Last but not least, Guanziling mud hot spring in northeastern Tainan is one-of-a-kind!

Day 13: Chiayi, Fenqihu, or Shizhuo

Chiayi city itself is nothing special, but it is the gateway to Alishan National Scenic Area, which lies in the Central Mountain Range directly inland. Chiayi is about one hour north of Tainan by train.

There is however one reason you may want to stay overnight in Chiayi: if you want to get up early the next morning to catch and early bus or if you have a reserved seat on the famous Alishan Forest Railway. Taking the highly scenic Alishan train ride from Chiayi up the mountain to Alishan is one of the great highlights of visiting Alishan.

Trains at Fenqihu, the halfway point from Chiayi to Alishan
My friends at the Alishan Forest Railway at terminal Fenqihu station

It is important to note, however, that for several years now, the train only goes halfway to Alishan, because the second half was destroyed in a typhoon. Now, you can only take the train from Chiayi to Fenqihu, which itself is a worthwhile stop (see below), and then take the bus the rest of the way (another hour).

It is notoriously hard to book online tickets for the Alishan train. To find out how to do it, read my complete guide to getting to Alishan.

However, if you have trouble booking in advance, what a lot of people do (including us when we last went), is just show up in Chiayi and buy a ticket for the train at the Chiayi train station the day before, then spend the night in a hotel near the train station. They seem to keep a quota for last minute ticket sales, and we had no trouble getting one.

If you don’t care about taking the train (note: you can also ride portions of the Alishan train that still operate within the Alishan scenic area at the top), or perhaps you were out of luck and couldn’t get a ticket, then you can always catch the bus from Chiayi up to Fenqihu or Alishan.

See all the bus times in my Alishan transportation guide linked to above.

So back to the itinerary…On day 13, you will catch a train up from Tainan, then either spend a night in Chiayi or catch a bus up the mountain. Most people go directly up to Alishan, but I would recommend stopping halfway in Fenqihu.

Have extra time? Consider a side trip from Chiayi city to Guanziling Mud Hot Spring nearby in Tainan county!
Fenqihu, a stop on the Alishan Forest Railway
Fenqihu, Alishan

Fenqihu is a cute, tiny train station village surrounded by gorgeous mountains and bamboo forests with hiking opportunities. It’s a one-street town famous for its train station lunchboxes, and you can see fireflies here in spring.

We stayed at Fenqihu Hotel (see prices / read reviews), which serves the original (supposedly) and most famous lunchboxes, and I loved the cute woden bathtubs in the rooms when we stayed. It’s literally connected to the town’s only 7-11.

Near Fenqihu, another great option is to stay on a tea farm in Shizhuo, where Alishan High Mountain tea (the most famous tea from Taiwan) is grown. The area has about a dozen local guesthouses run by tea farmers, with rooms offering amazing views over terraced tea fields.

Shizhuo tea farm guesthouse
Cuiti Guesthouse, where we stayed in Shizhuo

We stayed at Cuiti Guesthouse (see prices / read reviews) and loved it. I’d also recommend Longyun Leisure Farm (see prices / read reviews), which we hiked to in the daytime (with two young kids!) and was also incredibly beautiful.

Staying in Shizhuo was one of my top experiences in 10+ years of living in Taiwan. The scenery is fantastic, as are the sunsets, and there is a network of hiking trails among the terraced tea fields. The farmers will even pick you up at Fenqihu train station, but you may need to bring some food to cook for dinner as there are no restaurants.

Also heads up, they mostly speak little to no English, and you may be the only foreign tourist staying in the area during your visit!

For all the information about staying in Chiayi, Fenqihu, or Shizhuo, see my detailed Alishan guide.

Day 14-15: Alishan

On day 14, make your way from Chiayi, Fenqihu, or Shizhuo up to Alishan National Scenic Area, Taiwan’s most famous mountain resort.

Alishan is famous for Alishan High Mountain tea (you won’t see the tea farms unless you stop in Shizhuo), hiking trails though old growth forests with enormous and oddly shaped cypress trees, the small train lines still operating in the park, and the breathtaking phenomenon of sunrises over seas of clouds.

The main tourist trail through the forest of giant cypress trees in Alishan National Scenic Area, Taiwan
Amazingly huge trees at Alishan

For all these reasons, Alishan does attract tour group masses, but it’s still one of my favorite places in Taiwan. My complete guide to Alishan offers more information than you’ll find anywhere else, including how to get away from the crowds at Alishan.

If you happen to be coming when the cherry blossoms are blooming at Alishan (March to April), you’ll need to book a room way, way, way in advance.

On the day you arrive, spend the afternoon doing the main tourist hiking loop around the scenic area, which only takes a few hours. Here you’ll have a chance to ride a few short legs of the Alishan Forest Railway, and if you’re lucky, you’ll get one of the train cars made entirely of wood like we did. They smell amazing inside!

Wooden car on the Alishan Forest Railway, the best way to get around Alishan!
My kids inside a wooden car of the Alishan Forest Railway. Read about visiting Alishan with kids here.

On the morning of the 15th, wake up disturbingly early to take the small train line to the famous sunrise viewing point. The train is usually packed with notoriously loud tourists, so you can also consult my Alishan guide to find out how to hike up to the viewpoint, or to find other sunrise viewpoints with no tourists.

Spend the rest of the day exploring some of the lesser-known trails of Alishan, or catching up on sleep.

Don’t forget to bring warm clothes, even in summer. Although rare, you may even see snow at Alishan in winter!

Browse for hotels in Alishan here. Book early, as they are limited and always fill up!

Itinerary tip

While I recommend two nights here, it’s possible to cover Alishan by only staying for one night. Since you’ll be up so early for sunrise on your second day, you can still get in a few more hours of hiking before check-out time, then catch the bus (see below) to Sun Moon Lake. By doing this, you’ll gain an extra day to add somewhere else.

You can also take an organized 1 or 2-day tour of Alishan.

Day 16-17: Sun Moon Lake

The next stop is another touristy but worthwhile scenic attraction: Sun Moon Lake. Like Alishan, you’ll have to battle with some tourist crowds here, but I don’t personally find it that bad and I really love Sun Moon Lake.

See my (as always) extremely detailed guide to Sun Moon Lake here.

Sun Moon Lake, a must on your Taiwan itinerary
Gorgeous Sun Moon Lake

If you decide to skip Sun Moon Lake, you can take a bus from Alishan back to Chiayi train station, or from Alishan to Chiayi High Speed Rail station (approximately 2.5 hours).

There are two minibuses per day from Sun Moon Lake to Alishan, departing at 1 p.m. and 2 p.m. It’s best to buy your tickets the day before to secure a spot, and the winding ride takes about three hours.

I would advise trying to get the 1 p.m. bus from Alishan so that you can arrive at Sun Moon Lake before dark, though it’s not a big deal to arrive later.

There are two main villages on Sun Moon Lake. The main tourist village is called Shuishe. It’s more convenient, because it’s where your bus will arrive, and where you will catch a bus out from when you leave.

However, I personally prefer Ita Thao, the aboriginal village on the other side of the lake. It’s a tourist town as well, but has a more local and less resorty feel.

Ita Thao, Sun Moon Lake
Ita Thao, Sun Moon Lake

Ita Thao’s best part is that it has great night market filled with delicious foods. This may be your best chance in Taiwan (if you are following my Taiwan itinerary) to try aboriginal foods and millet wine! It’s also walking distance from the Sun Moon Lake Ropeway.

Ita Thao is a 30-minute ride on the round-island bus from Shuishe, or you can catch ferry across the lake. Cycling or riding a scooter is another option to get there.

Sun Moon Lake Wenwu Temple, a must on your Sun Moon Lake itinerary
Iconic view of Sun Moon Lake from Wenwu Temple

On Day 17, spend the whole day exploring the lake. The top attractions include Wenwu Temple (a huge temple complex with a phenomenal lake view), Ci En Pagoda, and the Sun Moon Ropeway to Formosan Aboriginal Culture Park.

You may want to consider getting a Sun Moon Lake Pass, and I’ve also got articles on the best Sun Moon Lake tours and Sun Moon Lake’s amazing black tea.

Browse for hotels at Sun Moon Lake here, and you can find some cool cabins around Sun Moon Lake here on Airbnb.

Quirky Side Trip: Monster Village

Xitou Monster Village is an unusual Japanese monster-themed village up in the hills of Nantou County, Central Taiwan. Read my full article on Xitou Monster Village to find out how to get there from Sun Moon Lake or Taichung.

Day 18-19: Taichung

The final stop of your Taiwan tour itinerary is Taichung, the second largest city in Taiwan by population (#1 is New Taipei City, #3 is Taipei City).

Regular tourist shuttle buses from Shuishe on Sun Moon Lake to Taichung take about 90 minutes. If you decide to skip Taichung, take the bus from Sun Moon Lake to the Taichung High Speed Rail station to get back to Taipei the fastest, or take a cheaper but slightly longer direct bus from Sun Moon Lake all the way back to Taipei.

When I first came to Taiwan, Taichung was a place that most travelers avoided. Nowadays, it is becoming one of Taiwan’s most popular cities for visitors, thanks mainly to its interesting mix of (especially art and food-related) attractions.

Taichung Cultural Heritage Park
Taichung Cultural Heritage Park

Rainbow Village is the star of the show, while Taichung Cultural Heritage Park, which makes use of an old beer factory, Painted Animation Lane, Totoro bus stop, and Guangfu New Village are other quirky attractions.

921 Earthquake Museum is an eye-opening sight, built in a junior high school that was totally destroyed by the deadliest earthquake in Taiwan’s history. Also don’t miss Feng Chia Night Market, one of the biggest in Taiwan.

See my complete guide to Taichung and Taichung itinerary for 1, 2, or 3 days for more ideas, and there are multiple possibilities for day trips from Taichung if you decide to stay longer.

Browse for hotels in Taichung here and Airbnbs in Taichung here.

If you find you still have more time before returning to Taipei, consider visiting some off-the-beaten-track activities like hiking to temples on Lion’s Head Mountain, picking strawberries in Dahu in winter, or soaking at remote Tai’an Hot Spring.

Day 20-21: Back to Taipei

Sniff, sniff. It’s time to go back home. I left an extra day on the end here for you to work with, which you can add to anywhere else, or spend your last day seeing anything you missed in Taipei at the start of your trip.

If you want to squeeze is as much of the island as you can, you could even take a bus or private transfer directly from Taichung to the Taoyuan International airport to catch your flight out of Taiwan. Then you won’t have to go back to Taipei, and can add another day or two somewhere else.

Good luck with your trip, and let me know if you have any questions!

I never travel without a guidebook! I recommend these:

10 thoughts on “An Insider’s Taiwan Itinerary for 1, 2, or 3 weeks”

  1. Hi! My wife and I speak mandarin but we are both from UK and US. We have four days to travel outside of Taipei and are unsure how to use that time. The places we are considering is:

    Taroko Gorge – Alishan – SunMoon Lake, do you think it would be wise to do all 3? Or just pick 1 or 2? Any advice would be appreciated.

  2. I’m planning a slightly longer than week long trip to Taiwan and your tips and detailed writing really helped clear my mind. Just wanted to say a big thank you!

  3. Hej Nick, just planing a trip to Taiwan after a wedding in Hong Kong and so glad to have stumbled over your blog. Really helpful information. I will make sure to study it all. We are currently looking for a good ‘base camp’ somewhere in a pretty little town where we would like to spend most our time and plan trips from… Could I trouble you to ask for your advice? Is there any place you would recommend? We will be flying to and from Taichung City and probably want to do Taipeh, Taroko Gorge and Sun Moon Lake. Many thanks, Mira

    • Hi Mira,
      Based on where you are planning to go, I can’t really think of an ideal “base camp”, since the places you are planning are really far from each other. It would only really make sense to stay in Hualien for visiting Taroko Gorge, stay in Taipei for visiting Taipei, and stay at Sun Moon Lake for visiting Sun Moon Lake. It would not be feasible to choose somewhere in between all of those, because your day trips to each place would be really far and you’d spend all your time on the road. I hope this helps, but do get in touch if you have any further questions!

      • Thank you for your reply. I figured it would not be possible without travelling around somewhat. Do you still have a recommendation for a particularly nice, maybe a bit more remote spot with a relaxed holiday feeling somewhere to spend a few days longer? Would you say Hualien or Sun Moon Lake would lend themselves more to do so? Many thanks.

        • Hi Mira,
          If you are looking for something more relaxed, I would say Hualien and Sun Moon Lake are not exactly that. Hualien City is just a pretty normal medium sized city, nothing special at all. If you staying somewhere closer to Taroko Gorge, like in Xincheng or even right in Taroko Gorge, definitely it will have more of a countryside/nature vibe, but still not really the “holiday” vibe I think you are looking for. Meanwhile, Sun Moon Lake I would say has more of a tourist vibe than anything. For both locations, though, the hotel you stay in will make a big difference. If you are staying in a nice resort, then certainly you can enjoy a relaxing holiday feeling at either place. But in a budget hotel, not so much…
          One area you might consider is Miaoli County. It’s quite off the beaten track as most foreign visitors don’t go there, but locals certainly do. Miaoli is most rural scenery and has been chosen as one of the world’s “slow living, slow travel” places. There are loads of B&Bs in small, quaint villages. See my Miaoli article for lots of pics and details. Another option you might consider is spending a few days in a hotel near one of Norther Taiwan’s beaches. They aren’t the best beaches in the world, but definitely you will find a more laid back, beachy vibe. You can look up my article on “Taipei Beaches” for ideas. I hope this all helps!

  4. Hey Nick, great article, thanks! You wrote about so many temple in Taipei, maybe you know what temple is the best to meditate. Sometimes i dont want to do it in classes or at home. Looking forward to your reply!

    • Hi Madeline!
      If you are just looking for a quiet temple to meditate in by yourself, then I would consider the following:
      -Lion’s Head Mountain (in Hsinchu & Miaoli counties): there are many temples there and you can even spend the night. See my article about Lion’s Head Mountain for all the info.
      -Linji Huguo Temple: If you go up the stairs behind the main building, there is a quiet section in the woods above that may be suitable.
      – Songshan Tianbao Temple: It’s an old temple with some parts in ruins, but it is located in the forest on the edge of town, so you can surely find some peace and quiet spots there with no people at all.
      – Silver Stream Cave at Maokong: also in the forest and very few people
      – Guandu Temple: there’s a quiet section at the back looking down on the temple where you could sit
      – Dharma Drum Mountain Nung Chan Monastery: some people like to sit by the large pool there and meditate
      You can find more info about all of these here:
      I hope that helps!


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