Alishan, Taiwan: Best Sunrise Spots, Hiking Trails and Tea Farms

Alishan (Mt. Ali) is one of Taiwan’s top scenic attractions, along with Sun Moon Lake and Taroko Gorge. The Alishan National Scenic Area is renowned for its famed Alishan sunrises over seas of clouds, small gauge Alishan Forest Railway, and Taiwan’s most sought after teas (here’s my full post on Alishan High Mountain tea).

Below I’ll introduce all the best things to do in Alishan, including interesting stops on the Alishan Forest Railway, tea farms, amazing hikes, the best sunrise spots, where to stay in Alishan/the best Alishan hotels, and Alishan restaurants. I’ll also provide an Alishan itinerary to help you experience the best of this awesome destination in the most efficient way.

There is so much transportation information for Alishan that I wrote this whole separate post on how to get to Alishan. Also read about visiting Alishan with kids!

This article includes three experience that make my list of top 50 things to do in Taiwan, and I think Alishan is a must on your Taiwan travel itinerary!


Planning a trip around Taiwan? Use Klook to get discounted rates on transportation, activities, entrance fees and more. We highly recommend it!


The best place to see the sunrise in Alishan, Taiwan
Find out how to get to this lesser known Alishan sunrise viewing spot!




Some local expats write Alishan off as too touristy and spoiled by noisy tour groups. I have always loved Alishan though, even the touristy bits, but also the little-known spots, and I recently went there for the fourth time in my 10 years in Taiwan.


What Makes Alishan So Special?

The main tourist trail through the forest of giant cypress trees in Alishan National Scenic Area, Taiwan
Alishan’s haunting, mist filled, ancient cedar forests


Alishan has been Taiwan’s most popular mountain resort by visitor numbers for nearly a century. Located in Chiayi County and bordering Nantou County, almost exactly in the middle of Taiwan, Alishan is actually a collection of peaks averaging 2500m that overlook the massif of Yushan (Jade Mountain), Taiwan and Northeast Asia’s highest mountain.

The area was original settled by aboriginals. In 1912, the Japanese opened the Alishan Forest Railway to log cypress trees in the area, but eventually logging decreased and tourists flooded in. Riding the small gauge train up from Chiayi (it currently only goes half way to Alishan; see my Alishan transportation guide) and between the various sections of the park is one of the great joys of visiting Alishan.  

Due to its altitude, Alishan is always about 10 degrees cooler than the main cities in Taiwan, making it a great respite from the heat. Its alpine forests feature giant Taiwanese red cypresses, many of which are 2000+ years old.

The forests on Alishan are regularly shrouded in mist, producing mystical scenes reminiscent of classical Chinese paintings, one of the reasons the park is so popular among visiting Chinese and Asian tourists.

Besides the many interesting things to do in Alishan, another big draw is the fact that Alishan High Mountain Oolong Tea, the most famous tea in a country that produces some of the world’s best oolong teas, is grown around Alishan. However, most tourists pass right through the tea growing regions, mostly located outside the national scenic area, without even realizing it.


An Alishan high mountain tea farm
Field of Alishan High Mountain tea, shot from my hotel in Shizhuo, half way up to Alishan (see below)


Suggested Alishan Itinerary

If you want to squeeze it in, you can visit Alishan in a single day on this Alishan day tour from Kaohsiung, Tainan, or Chiayi, or this one from Taichung. Also check out this article for other Taichung day trip ideas.

On your own, I would say two days/one night is the absolute minimum. Two nights is more feasible, while three nights allows you to add a night in Fenqihu or stay on a tea farm, and have more hiking time in Alishan.


Alishan in 1 night (2 days)

Day 1: From Chiayi, take the bus (or train + bus) to Alishan. Check in to your hotel, then do the standard tourist stroll through Alishan (see below) in the afternoon.

Day 2: Wake up early for sunrise (see below). Eat breakfast then take the bus back to Chiayi.


Alishan in 2 nights (3 days)

As above, but you can spend your second day exploring more of the hiking trails in Alishan instead of rushing back to the city.


Spend your first night in Fenqihu or on a tea farm and second night in Alishan. See the Alishan sunrise on your final morning before returning to Chiayi.


Alishan in 3 nights (4 days)

Day 1: From Chiayi, take the bus or train to Fenqihu. Stay in Fenqihu or on a nearby tea farm for one night.

Day 2: Catch a bus from Fenqihu or the tea farm to Alishan. Check in to your hotel, then do the standard tourist stroll through Alishan in the afternoon.

Day 3: Sleep in a little, then enjoy doing one or more of the longer hikes in Alishan.

Day 4: Wake up early for sunrise (see below). Eat breakfast then take the bus back to Chiayi.


*note that all of these Alishan itineraries require you to start in Chiayi. It is a good idea to spend one night in Chiayi first so that you can get one of the earliest buses or try to buy a train ticket the day before if you didn’t already make a reservation on the forest railway. We had a great stay at Chiayi King Hotel (read reviews / see prices), a modern, 3-star (but near budget priced) hotel near the Chiayi train sation.  

Other options include Hotel Discover (read reviews / see prices), which has great reviews and is super close to the train station and Yongxing Inn (read reviews / see prices), a basic but very cheap hotel also near the train station, while good hostel options nearby include Petite Hostel (read reviews / see prices) and Light Hostel (read reviews / see prices).


Fenqihu: A Worthwhile Stop on the Way Up to Alishan

Fenqihu, a stop on the Alishan Forest Railway
Fenqihu town viewed from above


The tiny mountain village of Fenqihu is currently the terminal station of the Alishan Forest Railway line from Chiayi. If you are only interested in visiting Fenqihu, you can go there on this maple viewing and tea tasting tour, which is best in autumn.

I like this relaxed little town so much that I’ve actually made a trip to the area just to stay here with friends after we hiked the amazing Ruitai Historic Trail.


Bamboo forest on the Ruitai Historic Trail near Fenqihu, Taiwan
A rather contemplative pic of me, shot by me, in the incredible bamboo forests of the Ruitai Historic Trail near Fenqihu


Hiking the Ruitai Historic Trail from Ruili to Taihe near Fenqihu, Alishan
Hiking the Ruitai Historic Trail


This 4 to 5-hour hike passes through incredible bamboo forests that you will have entirely to yourself. The trail begins in Ruili (瑞里) and ends in Taihe (太和), a village near Fenqihu. There is only one morning bus per day from Chiayi to Ruili, bus 7315, departing from Chiayi station at 9:20am, taking (if I remember correctly) about 1.5 hours. Here are the bus route and departure times in Mandarin.

Fenqihu itself is also surrounded by bamboo forests, and there are shorter hikes around town. In spring you can see fireflies here at night, and there is also a mini train museum with original Alishan trains on display.


Original steam train from the Alishan Forest Railway
An old-school Alishan train on display in Fenqihu


Fenqihu is also one of a handful of places in Taiwan famous for their lunchboxes, so you will see them being sold from train-shaped stalls as soon as you get off the train. We bought our Fenqihu lunchbox from the original famous spot, Fenqihu Hotel (read reviews / see prices), which also happened to be the hotel where we stayed that night. My favorite part of the hotel was probably the super cute little wooden bathtubs in the hotel bathrooms!


Fenqihu Hotel bath
Miniature bathtub in our room at Fenqihu Hotel


Famous Fenqihu lunchbox, Taiwan
Famous Fenqihu lunchbox


Perhaps the most famous lunchboxes in Taiwan are those sold at Fulong Train Station in New Taipei City. Read more and see pics in my article on the best beaches around Taipei.


Fenqihu Hotel, where the original Fenqihu lunchboxes are sold.
The original lunchbox spot, with the real life guy in the sign below:


Fenqihu lunchbox hero
The real life mascot for the Fenqihu lunchboxes


Taiwanese people eating Fenqihu lunchboxes on the train tracks at Fenqihu station
Locals pounding lunchboxes before the train arrives


If you’re like me and don’t eat meat, then you might want to go for this delicious stewed slab of tofu stuffed with delicious things:


Stuffed tofu snack on Fenqihu Old Street, Alishan, Taiwan
Delicious stuffed tofu in Fenqihu


Even if you don’t do the full Ruitai Historic Trail mentioned above, there are some gorgeous easy walking trails through bamboo forests accessible from Fenqihu town. This means you can check out the town and go for a short hike if you get an early bus from Chiayi and then spend a few hours in Fenqihu before continuing on to Alishan (just don’t miss the last bus!)


Read more about delicious Taiwanese foods in my articles on the best night markets in Taipei, a food tour of Taiwan’s Little Burma, and a guide to Ximending food.



Hike Through Tea Fields or Stay on a Tea Farm in Shizhuo

Long Yun Lisure Farm, near Shizhuo and Fenqihu, Taiwan
Long Yun Leisure Farm, a gorgeously situated hotel with rooms overlooking tea terraces.


Everybody knows that Taiwan’s most famous tea, Alishan High Mountain Oolong Tea, comes from the Alishan area, but surprisingly few people know about Shizhuo, a picturesque tea village on highway up to Alishan, or a 10-minute drive south from Fenqihu Train Station.

The hills above the highway that runs through Shizhuo are covered with terraced tea fields, and there is a network of hiking trails through them, with names like Mist Trail, Sunset Trail, Tea Trail, Cloud Trail, and Sakura Trail. It was hard to find any English information on Shizhuo, but I found this map of the hiking trails on this Mandarin blog about the hiking trails:


Map for hiking the tea trails in Shizhuo, Chiayi
Map if Shizhuo tea hiking trails


If you are interested in Taiwanese tea (I happen to be very much so; see here for my in depth introduction to tea in Taiwan), this place will be a heaven for you.

We spent the night at Cuiti B&B, the guesthouse in the photo below. The farm itself was so gorgeous that we didn’t have to journey far from our room to enjoy amazing panoramas over tea fields, or we could just enjoy them from our bedroom window. We also did part of the Cloud Trail and visited a few other tea farms nearby.

The owner was kind of enough to pick us up from Fenqihu, take my kids and I on a walk though some of his tea fields where workers were picking tealeaves, and drive us to the bus stop in Shizhuo the next day.

Staying on this tea farm, drinking tea with the farmer, seeing the sunset over the plantation, and hiking through the tea fields was one of my best Taiwan experiences to date.

Be aware that they don’t speak much (or any) English, and you should bring your own food to cook as there are no restaurants nearby. Breakfast is included. You can check prices for Cuiti B&B here or read reviews on Tripadvisor.


Chia Yuen guesthouse, Cuiti B&B, Shizhuo, Taiwan
Chia Yuen guesthouse and tea farm viewed from Cuiti B&B, where we stayed


There are several other similar options in Shizhuo. Longyun Leisure Farm (see prices / read reviews) overlooks an incredible terraced tea field (see photo at top of this section) and is connected to the Cloud Trail. It is the closest to Fenqihu (and also includes free pickup), but furthest from the Shizhuo bus stop on the highway.

Other similar options to where we stayed include Chia Yuen Homestay (see prices / read reviews) next door to our guesthouse, Alishan B&B Yunmingi (see prices / read reviews) near the Sunset Trail. Closest to the Mist Trail, highway, and Shizhuo bus stop (bus still a steep walk up) are Siangting B&B (see prices / read reviews) and Green Incense Homestay (see prices / read reviews).  


Alishan sunset from a tea farm
Same view as above but at sunset. The guesthouse is known for its sunset (not sunrise) views due to its position.


Shizhuo is situated so that it is best for viewing sunsets, not sunrises, and you can also experience Alishan’s famous sea of clouds phenomenon from higher vantage points in Shizhuo during sunset, but you need as much luck as at Alishan.


Other great tea regions to explore in Taiwan are Luye, Taitung, where the annual Taiwan Hot Air Balloon Festival takes place, and the Sun Moon Lake tea region.


Alishan National Scenic Area

What most people refer to as “Alishan” is the collection of tourist facilities, short railway lines, and hiking trails on the northern side of the national scenic park. You will first arrive at the brand new bus station and 7-Eleven just before the large Alishan entrance gate.

When you walk through the gate, you will need to pay a park fee of NT150 per adult. They will also give you a registration slip that you are supposed to sign and drop off at the tourist information center in the main parking lot.

Walking five minutes up the road, you will see the Alishan Forest Railway Station on the right, and the Alishan tourist village on the left, built around a large parking lot. There you’ll find several souvenir shops, teashops, restaurants, the information center, and a not-so-obvious post office (with the only ATM besides 7-11).

There is a road lined with hotels behind the parking lot, with a staircase going down to it from just beside the info center.


Want to know how to get to Alishan? The Alishan Forest Railway!
Wondering how to get to Alishan? Take the Alishan Forest Railway!


There used to be a 7-Eleven in the parking lot, which is now moved to the bus station where visitors arrive. There is another 7-Eleven at the top of the tourist village near the train station (it used to be a Hi-Life), which is officially the highest convenience store in Taiwan.

From the tourist village, you can walk or take the small train to all of the main hikes and attractions described below.

Currently, the Alishan Forest Railway runs to three stations within the park: Zhaoping (Chaoping), Shenmu (Sacred Tree), and Zhushan (the main sunrise viewing point. See my transportation guide for all the train times.


The Standard Tourist Stroll Through Alishan

Misty forests in Alishan National Scenic Area, Taiwan
Misty forests of Alishan


Walk (20-30 minutes) or take the small train (10 minutes) to Zhaoping Station. If you walk, you can veer off the road and walk through a park where cherry blossoms bloom in spring (March-April), or take the train then backtrack from Zhaoping Station to see the park.

From Zhaoping Station, follow the path beside the train tracks past Alishan Gou Hotel to the start of the Sister Ponds Trail (20-30 minutes). As soon as you enter the forest, you’ll find yourself in a fairy tale land of misty forests and ancient, enormous, oddly shaped trees.

This part of Alishan is where you will most likely experience the noisy tour groups that some people complain about, but it thins out as you go along, and there are many options for getting off the main trails (see below).


The larger of the two Sister Ponds, Alishan, Taiwan
The larger of the two “Sister Ponds,” tourist central in Alishan


After passing the two pretty ponds, the trail goes through Magnolia Garden and then reaches Shouzhen Temple, where there is a collection of food and souvenir stalls. Some great snacks on offer include tea eggs (yummier than the ones at 7-Eleven!), sausages, stewed tofu, steamed yams, and drinks with jelly balls made from saturated seeds of mountain plants.

There is a shuttle bus available here, running every 10 minutes or so, back to the information center in the tourist village parking lot.


If you love hiking, you may want to consider visiting Lion’s Head Mountain in remote Miaoli County, Central Taiwan.



Tea eggs some of the best things to eat in Alishan, Taiwan
delicious tea eggs


Steamed yams and other treats in Alishan, Taiwan
Steamed yams and other body-warming treats


Shan fen yuan, or jelly mountain seed drink, Alishan, Taiwan
Mountain seed jelly drinks


Snack and souvenirs stalls in Alishan, Taiwan
Snacks and souvenirs near Shouzhen Temple


Shouzhen Temple, Alishan, Taiwan
Shouzhen Temple, with a view of Dashan, Alishan’s highest peak


From here, there are two options to connect to another circuit of trails around Shenmu train station. From the middle of all the food vendors, there’s a staircase leading to a trail that features several enormous trees, the oldest of which is marked #28 and is some 2300 years old.

The other option is to cross the “Boat Shaped Bridge” on the main road near Shouzhen Temple.


2300-year-old giant cypress tree at Alishan, Taiwan, near Shenmu Station
2300-year-old “Tree #28”, shot while raining


On the western side or the circuit, you can access Ciyun Temple, which is considered one of the best spots for seeing the sunset in Alishan.


Temple lovers, also read my guide to the top 30 temples in Taipei and New Taipei City.


Ciyun Temple, Alishan
Ciyun Temple, a great spot for watching the sunset at Alishan


On the northern side of the circuit is Sacred Tree (Shenmu) station, where you can catch the small train back to Alishan Station, or you can walk back to Shouzhen Temple for the more frequent shuttle bus, or walk along the vehicle road back to Alishan Tourist Village if you’d prefer.

In total, you can expect to cover all these trails in 2-4 hours, depending on your speed of walking, route choices, and time waiting for trains/buses.


Best Places to See the Sunrise in Alishan

Duigaoyue sunrise viewing platform, Alishan
My friends and I at Duigaoyue Sunrise Viewing Platform


The classic viewpoint for the famous Alishan sunrise over a sea of clouds is the platform at Zhushan (2451m), where you can expect a mass of noisy people shivering in the dark while they wait for what is often not even a good or visible sunrise.

You need luck here; I’ve been to Alishan four times now and only seen two decent sunrises, one of which (barely) had the sea of clouds. Odds are better in winter, but it can also be bitterly cold waiting for the sun to come up. Winter clothing is needed, even in summer. You can by hats, jackets, and more at inflated prices in the tourist village if you didn’t bring them.

Here’s the good news: there are other options. From Zhushan, most visitors don’t know that you can walk up only 10 more minutes to reach Mt. Ogasawara (2488m), an octagonal viewing platform that has an even better view and fewer people.


Watching the sunrise near Zhushan, Alishan
Colors painting the sky before the sunrise at Alishan


Alishan sunrise spot at an abandoned sunrise viewing platform that very few visitors seem to know about called Duigaoyue Sunrise Platform (對高岳觀日坪). It’s a 5-10 minute walk down the road from Zhushan, at the only point where the train line crosses the vehicle road up to Zhushan. (MARCH 2019 UPDATE: according to one reader, this spot is currently inaccessible due to construction work.

At this crossing point, turn right (if you were walking down, or turn left if walking up) and walk along the train tracks (or on the boardwalk beside the tracks) for a few minutes. This is actually the start of the Duigaoyue Trail (see below).

You can’t miss the huge platform on the right side. I’ve been here twice now, and both times we were the only people there. The view isn’t quite as good as from Zhushan or Mt. Ogasawara, but having it all to yourself more than makes up for it.


'Sea of clouds' sunrise, Alishan, Taiwan
“Sea of Clouds” (sort of) Alishan sunrise from Duigaoyue Sunrise Platform


The train times and number of trains for sunrise change every day. You can buy your ticket at the Alishan Train Station from 1:30-4:00-pm the day before.

And here’s another tip: you don’t have to crowd onto the train with hundreds of other people at 4 am (give or take) to get up there. Many hotels offer a seat in a private car (NT250-300 per person), or you can walk up!

I’ve walked up in the dark, and it’s doable, but I would suggest that you at least find and maybe even walk up the trail the day before so that you don’t get lost the next morning. First, walk to Zhaoping Station and locate the Zhushan footpath just south of the station.

This 20-minute uphill stretch through the forest connects to the Zhushan Forest Rd., which then leads all the way up to Duigaoyue sunrise platform, or Zhushan. In total it takes less than an hour. A flashlight or headlamp is recommended.


Don’t Forget about the Sunset at Alishan!

Alishan Taiwan sunrises
Sunset at Alishan


With all the Alishan sunrise hype, a lot of people don’t realize you can also see gorgeous sunsets from Alishan. One decent spot is from Ciyun Temple near Shenmu station, with views of Datashan, the highest peak in Alishan.

A more convenient option is from the 2nd or 3rd floors of the Alishan Train Station, or from the road around the entrance gate to Alishan, where I shot the above photo at sunset!


For a few quirkier sights in central Taiwan, check out Rainbow Village in Taichung City or Xitou Monster Village in Nantou County.



Off-the-beaten-path trails for hiking in Alishan

It is very easy to escape the tourist crowds at Alishan. The following Alishan hiking trails are all within the Alishan National Scenic Area and easily accessed on foot from the tourist village.


Beautiful forests in Alishan
Looking up is mesmerizing


1. Duigaoyue Trail (對高岳步道)

It is very easy to escape the tourist crowds at Alishan. The following Alishan hiking trails are all within the Alishan National Scenic Area and easily accessed on foot from the tourist village.

Duigaoyue Platform sits at the start of a two-hour return hike to Duigao Pavilion (2444m). This relatively easy trail follows the train tracks for some time, offering views similar to what can be seen from Zhushan.


2. Train tracks from Duigaoyue to Sister Ponds

After sunrise, rather than taking the train or walking back the way you came, do the start of the Duigaoyue Trail, but just walk right on the tracks instead of the trail. This pleasant, easy stroll passes a point where you could join the Tashan Trail (see below), then leads back to the Sister Ponds. Don’t miss the little bridge over the wall that will connect to the Sister Ponds area. Budget about 30 min-1 hour for this stroll, and watch out for trains!


Hiking in Alishan
Hiking along the train tracks at Alishan


3. Tashan Trail (Mount Daito/塔山步道)

Some very motivated individuals hike up this difficult, 4-hour return trail for sunrise. The platform (2663m) at the end offers epic views of Tashan (Dashan/塔山, the highest peak in the Alishan massif) and Yushan/Jade Mountain (the highest peak in Taiwan). The trail begins at the Sister Ponds, follows the track train tracks going up, then veers north.


4. Shuishan Trail (水山步道)

This easier 1 to 1.5 hour-return walk follows a railway line that once lead to Dongpu and is no longer used. The trail crosses over a wooden train bridge, and ends at enormous 2700-year-old Shuishan Giant Tree. You can find the trail by looking for the spot where the old train line splits off from the Alishan to Zhaoping line a little south of Zhaoping.


Pro tip: If you really want to get off-the-beaten-track in the greater Alishan region, try the Alishan Northwest Corridor, a tourist-free region featuring more gorgeous tea farms, bamboo forests, hiking trails, and waterfalls. There are very few buses providing access to the area, so having your own transportation is ideal.


Where to Stay in Alishan

Some of the typical places to stay in Alishan. These Alishan hotels are all at the back of the Alishan tourist village.
The hotel strip at the back of Alishan tourist village


Alishan hotels are not cheap. The Catholic Church has dorms and private rooms and used to accept reservations, making it the only budget option in town. However, they seem to be moving away from that, as they no longer have English speaking staff, and when I called to inquire, they emphasized that they are a church not hostel, and said they don’t take advance reservations, but travelers can still just show up and POSSIBLY get a room, but no guarantee.

If you are a budget traveler, you could take a chance and try, but if you can’t get a bed you’ll have to try one of the regular hotels in town and hope they have vacant rooms. Let me know in the comments if you manage to stay at the church! We used to always stay there years ago!

Most of Alishan’s hotels are found on a curved road behind the tourist village parking lot. Just about all of them are similar, overpriced, rundown establishments starting around NT2500 for the crappiest of the lot (they can go down to around 1500 out of season).

Last time we chose Mei Li Ya (see prices) simply because it was the cheapest. It was as crappy as we expected, but on the plus side, they had electric heated blankets (would be nice in winter) and the guy at the desk was extremely helpful. He even lent us umbrellas and some sweaters for my kids because we had come totally unprepared.

Other options on the same road are Wankou Hotel (see prices / read reviews), Cing Shan Hotel (see prices / read reviews), and Shermuh Hotel (see prices / read reviews). Shermuh offers free pickup from the bus station, which would have been nice, since it was a bit of a trek from the bus station with all our luggage.

For more luxury at a price, try Alishan Hotel (Alishan House) (see prices / read reviews). It has beautiful natural surroundings and a great location, closer to the scenic attractions and Zhaoping station, but further from 7-11 and the amenities in the tourist village. They also offer pickup. For a great deal, check out this two-day Alishan tour from Chiayi which includes a stay at Alishan House and tickets for the morning sunrise viewing train.


Where to Eat in Alishan

Most restaurants are found around the parking lot in the tourist village. Here you can find hot pot and several places serving fairly similar meals. The pick of the bunch seems to be 999 Restaurant (九九九餐廳) on the second floor, and nearly identical Xin Xingguang (新星光餐廳) next door.

Their large soups, mountain greens, noodles, and other Chinese-style dishes are perfect after a long chilly day. I personally loved the cold tofu slices with delicious local wasabi and soy sauce. Fresh Alishan’s wasabi is more flavorful and less sinus-burning than wasabi  you might be used to from typical sushi shops.


Cold tofu with fresh local wasabi was one of my favorite things to eat in Alishan
Spicy bamboo shoots and cold tofu with local Alishan wasabi


Real Alishan wasabi
This is where wasabi comes from! You can buy real local wasabi from every shop and stall in Alishan


A new addition is the covered arcade of local food stalls across the parking lot (search for 娜若瑪菲美食街 on GoogleMaps). Come here for cheap, local food stall meals, best if you’re on a budget or traveling alone.

Many of the hotels give breakfast vouchers for local style buffet breakfasts served from restaurants in the tourist village. We were confused to find that our breakfast was served in a different restaurant on each day.

You can buy tea leaves in many shops in the tourist village, but one shop that stood out was Mt. Ali tea #35 (茶田35號), with creative package designs that break away from the usual Alishan trains and sunrises motifs. You can usually taste tea brewed on the spot before buying. 

Coffee is also grown on Alishan and sold in many of the shops, but (I’m embarrassed to say) I haven’t tried it. Let me know if you have, and what you thought!


When to Visit Alishan

Sister ponds, Alishan in winter
Sometimes it snows! (this is a picture I took of a picture in an Alishan restaurant)


Alishan Forest Railway tracks
Frost on the Alishan railway tracks in winter


As I mentioned above, Alishan is usually about 10 degrees colder than lower altitudes in Taiwan (see Alishan’s average monthly temperatures). Therefore, summers can be pleasantly warm but chilly at night, so you still need to bring proper clothing, especially for sunrise viewing.

Summer is also the most popular time, so it can be busiest and hotel prices are usually higher. Don’t travel to Alishan during (or shortly after) a typhoon or heavy rain, when landslides are common.

Like everywhere else in Taiwan, fall and spring are probably the best time to visit, but can get quite chilly at Alishan.

If you visit Alishan in winter, you have the highest chance of seeing the “sea of clouds” phenomenon at sunrise, but it can be freezing, especially when you are standing and waiting for sunrise. I quite enjoyed my winter visit but I personally love cold weather.

There was no snow when I visited, but I saw some frost on the Alishan forest railway tracks in the early morning.


Alishan in winter train tracks
Frosty leaf on the Alishan forest train tracks.


Learn everything you need to know for visiting Alishan, Taiwan's most famous mountain resort and place to witness the "sea of clouds" phenomenon! #alishan #alishantaiwan #alishansunrise #alishanitinerary #thingstodoinalishan #hikingintaiwan



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22 thoughts on “Alishan, Taiwan: Best Sunrise Spots, Hiking Trails and Tea Farms”

  1. After seeing the delicious food you ate in Alishan, it seriously made me miss Taiwan. Imho, Taiwanese food is effing amazing and I’m not ashamed to admit that I went 3 times… Just to eat everything. I would love to get away to Alishan so I can get away from the heat. The scenery honestly looks like something from a movie.

  2. Hi Nick,
    I’m planning a trip to Taipei with my family and was thinking of going to Alishan when I found your blog. Do you think it would be possible for us to travel on the bus to Alishan with a folded wheel chair?

    • Hi Corinna,
      If you see my Alishan transportation guide (there are multiple links to it in this article), you will see that there are some Chiayi to Alishan buses that are even wheelchair accessible. For the others, I can’t say 100% for sure, but since there should be storage space for people’s luggage under the bus, then I would imagine they must be able to put a folded wheelchair as well. If you want to find out for sure, you can always call Taiwan’s 24-hour free tourist information hotline at 0800-011-765 and they should be able to find out for you!

  3. Hi Nick,

    Great info! With this, I’m planning to go to Alishan on January. We plan on staying in Tainan as it is much cheaper. Do you think it’s going to snow around January 24-26?

    Also, here’s how we’d think our itinerary will be. Let me know what you think! 🙂

    Day trip to Alishan

    Tainan – Chiayi via TRA
    Alishan Forrest Train at 9AM (will try to book in advance)
    Get off at Fenchihu (explore around)
    Take the straight bus from Fenchihu – Alishan
    Alishan – Chiayi direct bus

    Thanks so much!

  4. Hi Nick! Going to Alishan with my friends and we’re a group of 4 on March 11. We’ll be coming from Taipei and will be in Alishan by 2pm. We plan to walk since I think it’s cherry blossoms season two two sisters pond, shouzhen temple then to ciyun temple to catch the sunset there. However, i’ve seen in some blogs that the more probable choice for sunset is near Alishan Museum. Do you happen to know where that is? Also, is it better to go there?

    Another thing, since we are going to catch the sunset, and I’ve seen that no more Alishan trains run around 6pm, how to we get back to Chiayi for Chiayi to Taipei HSR?

    Thanks so much and your blog was the best I’ve seen – and mind you – i’ve been researching about this for days!!!

    • Hi Riza, thanks for reading!

      I don’t thinking I’ve been to Alishan Museum, but I checked on Google maps and it seems to be almost right beside Ciyun Temple, so it seems like that general area is a good place to catch the sunset!

      There is no train from Chiayi to Alishan. Well, there is, but it only goes half way, from Chiayi to Fenqihu. After Fenqihu, you must take a bus for one hour to the top. Going back to the Chiayi HSR, the only option is to take the bus. The bus departure times from Alishan to Chiayi HSR are 10:10, 13:30, 14:40, 16:40. The last bus from Alishan to Chiayi TRA train station is only a little later (17:10), but then you need to travel from TRA to HSR station out of town, so it’s not really helpful. Basically, it’s not possible to see the sunset and also get back to Chiayi after, unless you book a private vehicle.

      I hope that helps, and let me know if you have more questions!

      • Hi Nick, I will be staying at Chiayi for a night on 4 March. Is it possible for us to go for sunset or sunrise and where would be the best spot? Or could you suggest us an itenary, been searching but still confused. Read your blog, you’re someone with a kind heart for sharing…

        • Hi Eddy,
          If you are staying in Chiayi City for only one night, then there is not really anywhere nearby that is famous for sunsets or sunrises. Alishan is famous for this, but you must travel about 2-3 hours to reach Alishan, and there is no transportation after sunset. If you have more time, you could consider going up to Alishan!

  5. FYI, your “secret sunrise spot” is currently closed by maintenance. There’s a two meter high metal wall currently. I stumbled there when hiking to the sunset platform in the afternoon.

  6. Nick, I am a volunteer at the Mountain Ali Tea No. 35. I want to thank you for mentioning us in your article. We have so many different countries visit and they are happy with our teas. Thank you!

    • Hi Sophia, it’s my pleasure! I was happy to see this interesting store. It’s a good addition to the usual ones at Alishan.

  7. Hello Nick Kembel! Thank you for this excellent blog post. Not only is the tea excellent quality, but the people working here are very helpful and friendly. There is a volunteer working here who wants me to thank you for her. If anyone comes to get tea from here, they’ll be lucky if they can meet Yoshie Iijima working at the store.

    • Hi Philip,
      Thanks for your comments! Are you talking about Mt. Ali tea #35? That’s great to hear they said thank you. I’ll need to stop in again and say hi to them next time I’m in Alishan! Enjoy your trip 🙂

  8. Hi there, I love your post, so informative! Would you be able to share more details on how to hike up Alishan to see the sunrise? I have tried to look for more details on Alishan sunrise hike but the search results always bring me back to “take the train” haha. Would love to hike instead if possible!

    • Hi Vik,
      Did you see this part of my article:
      “I’ve walked up in the dark, and it’s doable, but I would suggest that you at least find and maybe even walk up the trail the day before so that you don’t get lost the next morning. First, walk to Zhaoping Station and locate the Zhushan footpath just south of the station. This 20-minute uphill stretch through the forest connects to the Zhushan Forest Rd., which then leads all the way up to Duigaoyue sunrise platform, or Zhushan. In total it takes less than an hour. A flashlight or headlamp is recommended.”

  9. Hi Nick! Amazing posts about Taiwan with children. We are coming in three weeks time and love the sound of Alishan. We want to stay two nights there on 30th June and 1st July… I can’t seem to find any accommodation in that area – can you please help me? Am I looking in the wrong area? Could I email you a few questions?

    • Hi Sarah, thanks for your comment, and sure, please email me at
      I may need a day or two to reply because I’m on the last night of a little trip to Korea right now!

  10. Hi Nick,
    Planning a trip to Taiwan in December and have discovered your articles – amazing, so eye opening and informative!
    I’m just wondering how far in advance it is possible to book a night in a hotel in Alishan? I’m not traveling there until December as I say, and for the hotels listed here when I try to book them for my dates it says “sold out”, which I’m assuming means they aren’t available to book that far in advance yet as earlier dates are available.

    Many thanks!


    • Hi Martha,
      Thanks for reading! I can’t imagine they would sell out so far in advance, especially for December, which is low season there. I don’t know that they have a time period for booking specifically at Alishan, but I’ve noticed that many hotels in other places typically don’t do more than around 6 months in advance. Have you tried experimenting with earlier dates? You may be able to figure out how far in advance you can book by doing that. Best of luck!

  11. Planning a trip for January 2020 with my best gal pal and chanced upon your most lovely site… thank you SO MUCH for having added to the beauty of this world by sharing your knowledge and passion! The world needs more people like you who care and share! Hugs, stay safe and bon voyage!!

    • Ryan, thank you so much for your comment, and I’m really glad that you found some useful information and inspiration on my site. Happy travels!

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